Two People 361 Days Six Continents

Cartagena de Indias and Cartagena independence day

We had a great time in Taganga, but were also excited to see Cartagena, which is called the jewel of the Caribbean. We had a four hour bus ride from Taganga which we were told was "direct" to Cartagena, even though it made at least 13 different stops and went into Barranquilla! Alas... But we did get dropped off right near the old city wall.

While the city has obviously changed, through time, the old city has amazing charm from the colorful colonial buildings with small patios overflowing with bougainvilleas. I could spend days here wandering around and taking pictures of the city life of the people and the buildings they live in. Gabriel García Márquez, who still lives in the old city of Cartagena describes the city in his book "Love in the Time of Cholera":

The city, his city, stood unchanging on the edge of time: the same burning dry city of his nocturnal terrors and the solitary pleasures of puberty, where flowers rusted and salt corroded, where nothing had happened for four centuries except a slow ageing among withered laurels ...

We are staying in the Barrio de Getsemaní in a little hostel. Barrio de Getsemaní is outside of the walled area, and is pretty vibrant, and has MUCH cheaper hostels and restaurants.

Without knowing it, we arrived in Cartagena a day before its independence day (November 11). The festival started on Tuesday with the school parades. The next day we were told was the start of basically a 5 day crazy party in the city. I was talking to a lady who works at the hostel who told me to wear old clothes that can get dirty, and not bring a camera, or a purse, which.... was good advice. During the parade, people spray you with shaving cream (sometimes directly in the face) and throw corn starch at you as well. Then there are people that are either entirely covered with paint or just their hands. They threaten to grab you or touch you with their painted hands unless you give them a few coins. All in fun though really. In old town, you can get around pretty much without people coming up to you and spraying you or actually getting paint on you. However in Getsemaní we were sprayed with the foam, and even grabbed with paint (it washes right off)... while we were out at night on Wednesday, and had the old clothes on AT the parade, it was no big deal. BUT during the day when we were just walking on the street at 3pm.... it certainly got very old, very quickly.




But overall the festivities have been really fun. Bands playing with dancers in the street. Of course, all of the Miss Colombia contestants come by on floats as well before the annual crowning of Miss Colombia at the end of the festival! The Colombians we were around came up and talked to us a lot, and also were constantly looking out for us. (ie, don't go over to the barrio south of our area, keep a lookout for pickpockets). I think we had about 4-5 different families that were around just watching our backs. It is what we had been hearing about Colombians, and especially Cartageneans, is that there is pride in their heritage and city, that they are ever vigilant in trying to stop crime against unsuspecting tourists. Really, though, we feel very safe here and everyone has been incredibly friendly and just enjoying the festival.

Cartegena can be a mad crazy city, but this city has a tranquility near the fortress walls that has the impression of having seen everything, and continues to thrive.

Posted by Leslie at 2:15 PM

Labels: Colombia